Holster Retention Levels Explained: Passive vs. Active, Level I to IV

Quick answer: Holster retention is what keeps the gun in the holster until you draw it. Passive retention is the friction of a holster molded to your gun, usually with a screw to adjust the tension. Active retention adds a device you have to release, like a hood, strap or lock. The “Level I / II / III” labels come from duty holsters. Safariland, whose rating system is the one most people mean, counts the number of manual hand movements needed to release the gun, and states that “passive retention is not considered a retention level.” Some concealed-carry makers still label friction-fit holsters “Level 1,” so check what a maker means. For everyday inside-the-waistband carry, a well-fitted passive holster is the common choice.

Passive vs. Active Retention

• Passive retention: the holster is molded to your exact gun, so it holds by fit and friction. Many Kydex holsters have a tension screw to make the draw tighter or looser. Vedder, for example, lists its LightTuck as “Retention Level: Level 1” with adjustable retention.
• Active retention: a mechanism (a rotating hood, a strap, a locking device) that you must release as part of the draw. Safariland’s duty holsters (ALS, SLS) are examples.

Retention Levels I to IV, as Safariland Defines Them

From Safariland’s “Understanding Holster Retention Levels,” checked October 2026. Safariland states that passive retention is not considered a retention level. Other makers use the terms differently.

The key point: a level is about movements, not how many gadgets are on the holster. More movements make the gun harder to take from you, and they also mean more to practice before the draw is smooth.

Which Retention Fits Your Carry?

• Concealed carry, inside the waistband: a passive holster molded for your gun is the usual choice. It’s slim, simple and quick, and the gun is hidden, which is its own kind of security. Make sure the trigger guard is fully covered and the tension is set so the gun doesn’t come out when you turn the holster upside down (unloaded).
• Open carry or outside the waistband: the gun is visible and within reach of others, so active retention is worth considering.
• Duty and security work: follow your agency’s or employer’s policy.

Whatever you choose, practice the draw with an unloaded gun until releasing the retention is automatic, and get training if you move to an active holster.

Setting Passive Retention

1. Unload the gun and check it twice.
2. Find the tension screw (often near the trigger guard).
3. Tighten in small steps until the gun clicks in and stays put when you hold the holster upside down.
4. Back it off slightly if the draw catches.
5. Re-check now and then; screws can loosen with wear.

Comfort and Concealment With Any Retention

Retention keeps the gun secure. It does nothing about the holster’s edge digging in or the grip printing. A soft wedge on the body side of a Kydex holster helps both: it tips the grip in and cushions the edge. The Cloudster Pillow attaches with hook-and-loop; mount it so it doesn’t cover the tension screw or interfere with the trigger guard. Our wedge placement guide shows where it goes, and the size finder picks the size.

Quick Answers

What retention level is best for concealed carry?
A passive holster molded for your gun is the usual choice for concealed carry. Some makers call that “Level 1”; Safariland doesn’t count passive retention as a level at all.

What’s the difference between Level 2 and Level 3 retention?
By Safariland’s definition, Level II takes two manual hand movements to release the gun and Level III takes three.

Is passive retention safe?
A holster molded for your gun, with the trigger guard fully covered and the tension set correctly, holds the gun securely for everyday concealed carry. Check it regularly.

Can I adjust holster retention?
On many Kydex holsters, yes, with a tension screw. Adjust in small steps with the gun unloaded.